After underestimating the demand twice, we finally decided just to buy the entire available stock of these boots.
Go crazy guys.
- 2mm thick oiled leather, full grain cow hide
- All black, easy to shine and polish, hides dirt and stains
- 10" tall, coving and supporting the entire ankle
- Ten eyelets, and eight grommets on each boot
- Metzeler sole insert included. (Ivan advises you replace this, it's pretty old, and may have the imprint of another guys foot on it)
- Vibram soles
Recommended Aesthetic and Functional Practices
Breaking in your boots
Generally speaking, these Austrian Paratrooper boots have already seen some use. This does mean that the leather is not as stiff as new boot, but a "breaking in" period is recommended.
To break in your boots, wear them as often as possible over a one to two week period of regular activity (think grocery store trips, not hiking trips.) Use good, full length wool socks, and take note if you feel any "hot spots" while walking around. Friction between your foot and the boot is what causes blisters, and breaking in your boots should help with this.
If hot spots persist, silk or synthetic "liner socks" (worn under your wool ones) are a cheap and easy way to protect your feet. They are freely available at most outdoors stores.
It is of Ivan's opinion that tying your boots with a speed lacing method is superior to that of any external bow or knot.
It looks cleaner while minimizing the chance that you will trip, get your boots stuck, or have them come untied because you use a granny knot like a child.
There is an assortment of different speed lacing methods that will have these three attributes in common.
- Very long laces. (The excess in lace is necessary. If your boots come with normal size laces, consider investing in longer laces)
- At least one full wrap of lace around the ankle
- Tucking all excess lace deep inside the boot
This batch of boots comes with laces that are a little too short for most conventional speedlacing (it is still very possible if you copy the way it is laced in the photos, however it is not as sturdy as it could be).
We will try to include a pair of long laces from a batch of battered boots with as many orders as we can. No guarantees we have enough however. It's a convenient thing laces are inexpensive.
Blousing and tucking your trousers
If you are not going to tuck in your trousers when you tie your boots, and you are wearing baggy pants, I recommend investing in elastic blousing garters / "boot bands".
It will look cleaner, and help keep the cuffs of your trousers out of the way.
The upper(Every external part of the shoe but the sole) of these boots is made from full grain leather that has been treated to be water resistant.
To maintain this resistance along with the structural integrity and condition of the leather, you should educate yourself on boot leather care. Take your boots to a good shoe store, or research the care of "Oiled Leather" on the Internet.
Here is what the basic process looks like.
- Clean with leather cleaner or saddle soap.
- Condition with leather sealer/oil/paste
- Seal with a coat of leather protector or silicone.
Walk into any store that sells shoes and ask to have BOTH your feet measured.
If you find one foot is wider than the other, get that size, and force the habit of leaning on the smaller foot when standing still.
Shoe sizing over the Internet can be a little more finicky than clothing.
If you are unhappy with your boot's size, and would like to exchange for a different size, we will split the price of shipping with you. (50/50, only for the first attempt)
Boots are in great condition, minor dust and leather wrinkles/creases. Possible bruises and scratches that can be buffed out with proper cleaning and re-conditioning. (See "Boot care")
95% of boots have an x written in gray marker on the toe of the boot. These will wear off over time, or you can likely wash/condition it away immediately.